Review: Mamalan

 If you’re looking for authentic Beijing street food that packs a punch, it is well worth hunting out Mamalan

Tucked away among the East Village apartments, once home to the 2012 Olympians, Mamalan is worth the six-minute detour from Westfield Stratford – if only for the plump, zesty prawns.

Traditional lanterns and decorative bottles of soy sauce and white wine vinegar sit on shelves garnishing the restaurant’s walls. The large open plan kitchen is wasted in a restaurant that has the potential to seat 50 but doesn’t yet have a following. Thankfully what Mamalan lacks in atmosphere it delivers in flavoursome, authentic food.

The only beer on the menu was a light and refreshing Tsing Tao, a beer brewed only in China. A nice touch but at £4 for a 300ml bottle, it is hideously overpriced. The remaining drink selection was limited and equally expensive.

Despite ordering from the street food section of the menu for starters start, everything arrived at once. An amusing session of Tetris unfolded as the waiter tactfully moved plates in the hope that the metre squared wooden table might magically grow.

The fried vegetable balls, each roughly the size of a golf ball, had a thick, spongey batter. They were perfect for soaking up the more spicy than sweet chilli dip. Similar to spring rolls, the vegetables were finely chopped and although moreish, they were definitely best shared.

The coriander and chilli prawn skewers were the highlight. Their meaty texture was complimented by an intense smokiness. All six prawns were well prepared, with the bloodline removed, and this alone warranted the £6.50.

The steaming bowl of beef noodle broth was generously portioned. Tender beef that melted in the mouth and wilted bok choi absorbed the rich broth perfectly. It is just what you need when it is minus 3 outside and at only £9 you really cannot complain.

The six restaurants across London offer roughly the same menu. Restaurant owner Ning Ma uses recipes that originate from her grandfather’s food stall in China, set up after the Cultural Revolution. A meal for two with drinks, starters, mains and sides will set you back roughly £50 and leave you stuffed to the brim.

As long as you and your friends bring the atmosphere, Mamalan will deliver a tasty and informal dining experience.

Mamalan

21-24 Victory Parade 

East Village, Stratford

London E20 1FY